Snow!

Near Nederland, CO

September 23rd, 2006

 

 

It wasn’t long until I picked up the set of large elk prints in a couple inches of wet snow that had recently fallen. They were the biggest prints I have seen in some time. Larger than the palm of my hand. I didn’t know where he came from but these prints were large. A single bull. Quite possible a soon-to-be herd bull looking for his herd. Besides the coyote tracks these were the only other tracks I had seen so far. Funny how the aspen grove is home to elk in the spring, summer and winter. But when the rut arrives the elk go somewhere else. I was about to find out.

 

 

I followed the track despite almost losing them in the deep grass near a small seep. I saw where the bull went to the bathroom. I saw how he squeezed himself between two trees. Never taking a straight path or the easy way. Wandering from tree to tree. Then he took me back to the aspen grove along an old elk trail. I lost his trail in the open grassy meadow. I stayed true to his general direction and picked them up again. Where he met up with others. Their prints melted to the ground and hard to tell. Probably from Friday, maybe Saturday morning but way before me. Another set of prints caught my eye. Deer. A mother and a fawn who also fed in this rich environment recently.

 

 

I stayed on the prints of the old bull. They took me up the mountain. Not following any trail or stopping along the way. Relentlessly he walked. His stride much larger than mine. For every two large steps of mine he took one. I saw where he kicked up fresh dirt from a mound of an underground rodent. I saw how his gait tracked perfectly, back hoof falling perfectly where the front one blazed a trail through the snow. He kept his distance from the other two elk tracks. Or they stayed clear of him. Younger bulls maybe? Cows? Through the aspen and willows, up through dark timber and lush pockets of small aspen valleys. I would follow his tracks for miles. Amazing the bull never stopped to graze or bed. I can only imagine him stopping to smell the air or before he crossed an open area. Bulls can smell cows in estrus for miles. I’ve seen bulls do strange things. Like last weekend watching the 5x5 in a trot with his nose to the ground like an old hound dog on a fresh scent. Like the large 6x6 many years ago walking UP highway 36 from who knows where against oncoming traffic on the small shoulder of the road in the middle of the night. His mouth open. Instinctively bulls will seek out the cows in the valleys. The big bulls appear from some hidden place where they have spent the summer growing large. And they will travel miles to seek out their cows. And to chase the current herd bull away. Or fight with him for the right to breed. It’s everything they live for. To continue their species.

 

 

Two things about this photo. This seep doesn’t show up as a spring on ANY map. But many places exist. You will only find them on foot. The other important note. See the willow to the left of the tall pine? It’s been eaten up all around the base to about halfway up. A sure sign that elk winter here. Willows left untouched will grow wide and round. Willows on elk wintering grounds will be nibbled on every winter. Eventually the willows will disappear or end up as a stubby pile of sticks once every leaf and new growth have been eaten down too far. I nearly lost the bull through this deep grass.

 

 

Where the dark timber of the spring meets the aspen grove I found these markings from a bear long ago.

 

 

Here is the famous meeting spot. One could sit here in the mornings or evenings and watch elk filter out of the trees and into the meadow to eat. Elk eventually end up in the lush willows north of where this photo was taken. This is where the big bull tracks met up with two other elk.

 

 

The sun peeked out of the clouds for a brief moment lighting up the trees in the distance. That’s Niwot Ridge in the background.

 

 

The elk tracks took me up the mountain, around this lush valley of aspen and pine. Then the tracks turned south following the ridge. I continued my march knowing it was getting late and I was running out of time. I quickened my pace. I needed to know where these tracks would go. Even if that meant I would be walking back to the truck in the dark.

 

This ridge is tall and long. About halfway across it the bull tracks mixed with other elk tracks. A herd of cows. Like a magnet or some mysterious force the bull I was following met up with his cows. The tracking was easier now. I kept on them as they now went down the mountain. To the southeast. All the time getting closer to private land.

 

 

The snow ran out. Either the forecast was too ambitious or the storm faded out as it cross the divide. I lost the tracks but I continued to follow in hopes I was still on their trail. I stopped here as it was getting dark. I either had to turn back or continue. I got my bugle out and let out a locator bugle. I waited. Five minutes passed. Then ten. As I was packing up I heard a bugle from the top of a small ridge to my left. It was getting dark fast and there was no way I was going up there. I had hoped he would come down to me. So I could see this bull if it was even the same bull I had followed most of the day. I let out some social cow calls. Nothing. I let out more cow calls and a bugle. Nothing. I let out some cow in estrus sounds. A response! The bull bugled twice more demanding that cow get up here now. I pulled on my backpack, turned on my headlamp for the long walk back to the truck. As I headed out I listened to the bull bugling less often now. I heard him one more time before I rounded the corner and over the first of many rolling hills back to the truck. What a beautiful sound. I thought it was best I never saw the bull. That way I could imagine him as I wanted. As the big herd bull that came down off the mountain and found his herd. The one I followed for miles. The one who showed me where big bulls go and how the elk run in this area.

 

It was a perfect ending to the perfect archery season that I have experienced in many, many years. Archers really did have the perfect season. The weather cooled when it should have. There was a full moon and a new moon. Despite the late peak of the rut the elk were active. Snow fell during the last week and stayed around long enough making it easier to track. Sunday was cool and clear. Indian summer arrived today. And kicks off the steady decline into winter. I will spend my winter preparing for next year. Working on the website, editing film and photos taken in Wyoming this October. And when the weak February sun shines somewhere behind overcast skies I will think back to the sights and sounds of this September and remember. The smell of wet pine, sage, aspen and the coolness of the creek valleys. The eerie bugle of a bull on a crisp September morning. There really is nothing better.