Virtual Elk Hunt

Archery

Labor Day Weekend

September 5-7

At the end of Poison Basin Road lies one of the best situations you will find in elk country. The area is remote. It’s 18 miles to the nearest highway. The road is only decent when it is dry. When it is wet you really need chains, a wench and good tires. The trees continue to encroach and consume the road as they have on many, many other logging roads in the area. The road is becoming more washed out every year. Soon, it will only be passable by ATVs.

From here it is a straight walk down the valley onto private ranch lands where elk will winter. Most mild winters the elk don’t have to migrate far at all. Only during harsh winters will you find nearly all elk in the area down as far as the Colorado River near Kremmling. A similar situation exists for elk in nearby Unit 17. It’s a straight walk down to ranch land to winter. Summers are lush, quiet and as you can see in the photo above a paradise.

Some of you may be asking what was I doing here when I had such a wonderful opening weekend in the IPW? As it turned out last weekend was driving almost entirely by a perfectly timed cold front that really got the elk activated. This weekend was quite the opposite. No bugling and no elk. I really wanted and needed to write an article for my third annually 12 hours lost in the Troublesome. The big mistake was bringing the dog. And the kid didn’t want to walk very far either. A reluctant group makes it difficult to get very far. So we did what we could and covered as much land as possible.

According to the bowhunter and his son who were camped nearby the elk were bugling like crazy right in the area last weekend. This reinforces the theory that a good cold front is always a good thing when you are looking for elk. The elk bugled all night and they could barely get any sleep. This was just before the full moon period too. Thanks to the bowhunter for giving us a lighter so we could enjoy a warm dinner. We had packed everything EXCEPT a lighter for the stove. As we talked by lantern light a very healthy doe was lingering around eating. She was as tame as could be. They said she stays around all night eating grass around the tent and making noise. They actually had to shoo her away so they could get sleep. Amazing. The photo above confirms the bowhunter’s story. It doesn’t take much of a cold front and some rain to push the elk into the valleys at night. Otherwise all the elk are consistently between 10,000 and 10,250. This is true for every hunting season until the snow sticks deep enough to force elk down lower. Knowing how the weather affects elk is just as important as timing the peak of the rut. The best scenario you can hope for is to hunt elk during the new moon (darkest), when a cold front is pushing through and the peak of the rut is just beginning. Weather is always the biggest variable. You can always anticipate the moon and the peak of the rut. That’s two out of three of the most important ingredients you need to guarantee you the best elk opportunities.

Poison Basin is big enough to hunt for a full week and not see it all. But small enough to hunt enough of it to find elk. At the base of the basin is the most perfect meadow. Bulls will hang up as high as they can for as long as they can to avoid hunters in the valleys. Even if that means they have to dig through one to two feet of snow they’ll do it. The evidence I have for that is from the willows. The willows the upper valley have been eaten down a lot. The wet lower valley shows signs of much healthier willows despite the beaver who’s always reinforcing his series of dams. The cows transition first and also take greater risks with hunting season. There is an unnamed creek in the upper basin pictured above. I HIGHLY recommend it for archery, ML and first rifle seasons. Second rifle season depends on the weather. Once Poison Creek Road gets wet it can be very difficult to get out. We should have headed in this direction today. I regret it now because we didn’t get very far down the valley as I had hoped. Many hunters will camp on top of the tundra and hunt the upper portions of Poison Creek from there. That’s actually a good idea for early season hunters. The walk isn’t far and you’re already at 11,000 feet which is just about where you want to be during archery season. There is a nice valley with a small unmarked, unnamed creek on your way to Poison creek too. If you don’t want to beat up your truck camp on top of the saddle. See the photos near the end of this article.

We headed south from here. A faint trail takes you all the way to the Hendricks Ranch where the low ridge appears in the center of the photo. It’s about a one mile hike from the end of Poison Creek Road to private property. This is the elk migration route out of Poison Basin. Elk funnel through in groups. Don’t expect elk to be in the valleys during daylight – though they can be if the weather is just right. I highly suggestion walking the many game trails along both sides of the valley to find elk. You can see the east facing slopes (on the right) have more open space and aspen trees compared to the heavily forested western facing slopes (on the left). Elk love the protection of trees. You should plan to hunt the upper portions of these ridges to find elk. Elk will feed in the valley at night – that you can be assured of. During daylight hours the elk will be between halfway up or on top of these ridges.

Looking back up the valley from where we came you can see a steep aspen covered ridge just north of where everyone camps. In the background is Poison Basin. Poison Creek is to the right side of the basin. I HIGHLY recommend that part of the basin as well as the middle part. How you get there (from on top or from the bottom) is up to you and should be dependent on the current weather forecast.

This ridge is somehow connected to the massive Sheep Mountain. There are many mountains named Sheep Mountain in Colorado. On the drive down the mountain you will see a lush valley below. It is very wet and lush. The elk can be found there during transition times in the spring and fall. Even during the summer. Don’t expect elk there during hunting season. The road is too close. You can find elk on this ridge if you look from the middle to the top. There is a nice valley to the left and a nice valley to the right. Still hunting in between could be beneficial. Don’t expect elk here during any gun season. The elk will go remote and feed at night during gun seasons.

We found this little guy halfway in some very soft soil at the base of a willow along the trail. I want to say it is a salamander but I’m not certain. He was cold and slow this early in the morning. He didn’t put up a fight at all.

Look how lush this valley is! Where are all the moose? This is looking northeast. The beaver has all but flooded this valley. It is very wet.

This area is called the confluence. Where an unnamed creek flows into Troublesome Creek. Hey, wait a minute, this looks exactly like the other place called the confluence where Paradise Creek flows into the East Fork Troublesome Creek. Read more about that here. These places are always HOT SPOTS! Follow the valley up and you will find elk during the day. During summer elk can be found grazing near the confluence nearly every day starting at 4pm until dawn.

Here is a photo of the confluence where Paradise Creek flows into the East Fork Troublesome Creek. According to the Cowboy who punches cattle in the EFTC valley there are some large bulls that summer here. This confluence is much larger than the one in the upper Troublesome Creek valley. You can read more about that trip here.

Here is the ridge opposite of the confluence. Elk can come from either way to graze in the lush valley at night.

We found a lot of tracks where the unnamed creek flowed into Troublesome Creek. This is always a good sign.

Naturally, this is where we crossed the creek and found this awesome trail. I think it is an old cattle trail but I’m sure elk use it to migrate to nearby Hendricks Ranch. This is where we heard a bugle about 1040am as we headed back towards camp. It was very suspicious. I was convinced it was a hunter either from the ranch or from our camping area. It sounded like a man-made bugle. Though I can’t say for sure. What makes me suspicious is the time and the location. This wasn’t a heavy rutting area from the lack of sign. I think the elk know better than to visit this area during daylight. It’s just too convenient.

The fence is in shambles that mark the boundary of the Hendricks Ranch. Our destination was Buchhorn Creek deep in the Troublesome Wilderness Study Area. We never made it. The Grimes Peak Trail (number 58) starts near Matheson Reservoir which is part of the Hendricks Ranch and goes all the way to Big Horn Park - Private Land. You can read more about that here. The TWSA is hard to get to. This is the easiest route unless you have access to private land or a horse. I believe the TWSA is a safe haven for many elk because of nearby private lands and remote wilderness surrounding it. I won’t know more until I can inspect the area myself. What ever you do go around the private land TO THE LEFT of this photo (east). The other way around is completely flooded in the valley. Hike up the ridge and follow the fence around to access the pseudo mesa where the Grimes Peak trail follows along. It’s a wonderful mild terrain with lots of open areas, aspen and dead pine.

Remember I said don’t head west from the private land boundary? This is why. It’s completely flooded by the busy beaver. Yes, we crossed here but we also got soaked. Not worth it.

Hendricks Ranch is heaven on earth. There are two private roads that take you into the heart of the Troublesome area. This is one and the other is part of the Wheatley Ranch in the EFTC valley. If you can gain access for a fee DO IT.

This wonderful aspen stand lies west of the ranch. Notice the elk markings on the trees?

I found plenty of elk sign in the aspens nearby. This tree scrape is one of them. We found a very smelly elk bed nearby. Elk use this as a transition area. In many ways the elk use the land around private land as a buffer zone. They feel safe but they may not be fully aware of the boundaries.

We followed this elk trail all the way back. There were many trails at different elevations. All very distinct and easy to follow.

Here is the nice valley above the confluence. Notice the changing aspen leaves at the higher elevation surrounded by dark timber. According to the map this valley splits several times. If you stay true and walk to the top there is a very nice saddle which gives you access to Lost Gulch and Long Draw. You’ll have hunter pressure from those areas which makes this valley very interesting when conditions are right. Click here for the satellite view courtesy of Google Maps and Digital Globe.

Look how lush this valley is! If you are looking for great habitat in some of the best elk country in the west look no further. You could hunt the area over a lifetime and still not see it all. The Troublesome offers some of the most amazing scenery and abundance of wildlife than you will find anywhere in the west.

This is yet another view of the confluence area. That’s me looking down at the dog who is hidden in the sage. You can see it’s not a very far walk to the top of this valley. Considering the pressure that comes from the north and east of Sheep mountain, hunting this valley during a late season can be very productive. Always hunt near water and aim for the greenest parts of the mountain. Elk are nearby.

A view from the top on the way out. It is about a 3 mile and a 2,000 drop in elevation from the saddle of Sheep Mtn to the end of Poison Creek road. There are a lot of logging roads in the area that make it easier to walk in the dark. We camped at the base of the small aspen and pine covered ridge smack in the middle of this photo.

A view from the bench on top of the saddle. From here you can see all the way east to Longs Peak along the front range mountains, to the Gore Range to the southwest and all the way to Wyoming to the north. It’s a great view on a clear day. That’s Corral Peak to the right of the photo.

This is one of my favorite photos. That’s Haystack Mountain in the center surrounded by Parkview Mtn in the background. This is the northern border of Unit 18. Troublesome pass is near the small meadow below. There are a LOT of bear all around Haystack Mtn. The forests area very old and mature. The pine beetle has killed most of the trees except the fir and spruce.

In this view you can see Longs Peak in the background, Gravel Mtn in the middle and a very good place to hunt near Parkview mountain.

Looking northwest you can see the peak that makes up part of Poison Basin. Many people will camp here and hunt up high during archery season. There is a small unnamed creek in the trees to the left of the peak. It’s a moderate walk around this area and many logging roads make it easy to access without vehicle traffic.

Here’s the bench with the awesome view. If you have a decent 4WD you can drive up to this point.

Looking north you can see the Never Summer Mountains, North Park and nice aspen covered ridges in Unit 17. This area has sees a LOT of ATVs, motorcycles, etc. during most weekends. There are many, many roads in the area. Some are closed after labor day to give elk and other wildlife more peace and quiet.

The forest service is doing a LOT of tree clearing in Unit 17. If you hunt in this area I HIGHLY recommend the East Branch and surrounding ridges for elk. It is a very lush, wet area with dark timber from timberline areas on the north slope of Parkview Mtn. At the bottom lie a lot of private ranch lands and a state wildlife area for elk to winter. Their migration isn’t very long from summer to winter grounds. Most elk will hang up high as long as they can. I have found some very impressive rutting sign about 1 mile from road 106. Elk are more relaxed during the weekdays and between hunting seasons in this area. I remember reading in “Colorado’s Biggest Bucks and Bulls” about a trophy elk taken in this area. In the background are the Never Summer Mountains. This isn’t far from Rand, Colorado.

I hope this gives you yet another area to consider in your pursuit of elk. As you can tell there are a million places to go and not every valley holds elk at the same time you’re looking for them. Most areas can be categorized as transition areas. You are looking for places where elk are living. Bedding areas will be very, very smelly places and feeding areas will be very green. Traditional rutting areas will have a lot of large tree rubs. Pay close attention to the weather and the moon phase as they have a profound affect on elk behavior. Most of your time will be spent hiking and looking for where elk are living. That’s half the fun. The other part of your time will be spent timing your approach so you will be in the right place at the right time.

Thanks for reading!