Scouting Trip

Unit 18 and 181 in Colorado

June 22, 2008

Gas prices are high and I have limited time and money available for scouting trips. However, I did have a trip I’ve been wanting to do for two years. I needed some time for the snow to melt and it wasn’t enough time. I got stuck in a large snow drift that blocked the road around 10,500 feet. Others can get through it now that I’ve shaved about a foot off the top of it. And warm temperatures will do the rest. The series of roads around Corral Peak and Elk Mountain are prime elk habitat in spring and summer. However, the series of roads is a bad thing during the fall when hunters on every form of wheels are covering every road routinely.

The more I scout the southern part of the troublesome basin the more I find these little nooks and crannies with some elk, dead elk or hot elk sign. I mark the places on my map and over time a pattern appears. Where elk are during different seasons. And the biggest secret is the elk are not far from well used trails. Even roads some times. Nearby but always, always, always out of sight. Surprisingly even during the middle of rifle season. The elk don’t clear out of the Troublesome even during the busiest hunting seasons. They just seem to side step most of the hunters. My best advice – take the time to check the small nooks that most people pass by for more remote areas. This seems to apply to the Troublesome Basin. You may not find elk behavior like this in other areas.

For example not far from the Wheatley Creek trailhead about 9,750 in elevation along the trail there is a small, steep, south facing slope surrounded by ridges and several creek and intermittent creek valleys. Just up an over a nearby ridge is the trail. Out of sight, out of hearing range.

A place where I found this dead 6x6 that appeared to die in October, 2006 in a fight with another bull for the right to breed. Click here to see the location on a topo map. Had I known the trail was so close I would have followed it back to the truck. But I never found the trail or maybe believed it was just a game trail I was on.

Then there is this long creek valley within earshot of Highway 125. No pullouts exist but there was enough space to park. I took a hike one snowy morning last October 2007. Just as I hiked over a small rise, just a bend in the long ridge really, the view of the dirt road where I parked was completely blocked. You can read about the close call I had with a classic 5x5 here. And click here to see this valley on a topo map. Elk, deer buffalo, and antelope use these little washes and dry creek valleys on the prairie to hide as they travel. A whole group could move through an area and never be seen. The elk in trophy units of western Colorado like unit 10 use these deep washes to avoid hunters. Entire herds of cows can migrate through during the day without being seen. The elk in the Troublesome use the terrain to their advantage too. Often hunters simply pass by an area to head further back in where the “real elk hunting” begins. But as I followed those tracks in the snow I learned something about the elk. They are almost always in reach but we never stop to follow these small creeks with no names. Or seek out a small fold in the mountain as it appears on our topo maps. Surely no elk would be there. Where there is no water or meadow. But water and food sources area always nearby. It is those small places on the maps that should catch our eyes. Those tiny open spots - meadows on an aerial map. We overlook the word “spring” on a map because it is 3 miles from the nearest access point. We opt for more mild terrain, easier walking, a familiar trail a big meadow and “hope” to catch an elk crossing through. Only the young elk make such mistakes. And pay for it dearly. The big bull and the matriarch cow they know where to travel through and where to hide. They know we won’t look in the insignificant little nooks on our maps. And that’s where they live year after year. Avoiding hunters and teaching their young how to survive. When we see elk they made a mistake. They were either too young and naïve or simply took that one last step that exposed them to some lucky person who was lost in the first place. If there is anything I’ve learned it is I’d rather be good than lucky. Sure there are still a million more nooks that I have yet to discover. All I can do is systematically seek out these small corners of each creek valley and follow the timing of the moon and the peak of the rut so I can get a chance to find the elk whom has mastered his terrain and memorized every tree. Location is everything in real estate but so is timing. If I had to choose I would want to time it right rather than happen across the path of a big bull. Because if I can reliably predict the time a big bull would be actively breeding cows then his attention would be away from me and on his cows. That gives me multiple opportunities and the advantage instead of one lucky moment in the right location watching an elk run away from me. Yes, location is critical but timing truly is what you want to master. Many times I have been just a few minutes late. I’d been in the perfect location but just too late. All I’m left with is evidence in the form of scat, urine on a trail, fresh tracks leading away from a water crossing.

Another observation. As soon as the short grasses sprout up among the sage and creek valleys it appears the elk are literally racing up the mountain. Their tracks prove it. They are literally steps away from the melting snow as it recedes and uncovers fresh, new grasses. Bulls waste no time migrating back to their favorite summer retreats. Elk need their solitude and peace. Bulls require it. Which leads me to these series of photos I found on an unmarked dirt road just east of Hot Sulphur Springs, CO.

From what I gather this big old bull made it all the way through winter.

Endured the coldest months starving on some hay rancher’s land on the banks of the mighty Colorado River. He probably dodged bullets to get to his wintering ground. Survived deep snows and waited patiently for spring to arrive. And spring arrived early but the weather stayed cool longer than normal. The first moment he had the chance to seek out the nutrient-rich grasses sprouting up among the sage on a south facing slope he made his move. He got up from his bed and began his migration back up the mountain.

But first he had Highway 40 to cross. And that is where he met up with a car, truck or semi. He made it across the road but died a few steps short of the dirt road.

His body was cleaned of all its meat. His legs cut off above the hoof. His mighty antlers and quarters packed away into a vehicle. His rib cage stripped down by masterful butchers. They’ve done this before I could tell. And thus ended his migration back to his favorite place on the mountain. At least he didn’t go to waste or the coyotes.

Therein lies the endless problem wildlife have. Too many people to dodge, escape or avoid. Too many roads to cross. Too many fences to jump. All this to compete with and there is more to come. As I write the Colorado legislature is hearing arguments to open up more land for drilling for gas and oil. Regardless of the outcome elk will have more obstacles to avoid in the future. The human population is only growing. We’re not the only ones who realize it. Click here to read what the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation and Elk Heaven say about it.

He was a big bull. Make no mistake he was one of the Troublesome’s finest. I wonder if he was the big bull I filmed around the Corral Peaks in September 2007. I compared him to a one year old bull calf. I estimate the big bull to be 8-10 years old.

Here’s another photo to compare. Hopefully some local contacted the CODOW near Parshall and claimed the meat. I’m trying to contact them to confirm how big the bull was. I’d love to get a photo to see if he was the big bull I filmed. It’s almost a straight line from this point north to where I filmed him. It’s a possibility but there are several large bulls roaming around the Troublesome.

Back to the scouting trip and off my rant.

This small section of BLM is open to hunters near the intersection of Hwy 40 and 125.

There is a small parking lot off Hwy 125. The road is not marked by any signs at all. That’s your clue it’s BLM land. They just don’t want to advertise it. It is surrounded by private ranch land like the C Lazy U Ranch.

We took the Cabin Creek access road (road 21) west from Highway 125. There is a big sign for Cabin Creek. There are also a web of roads around on the east side of Corral Peaks. And and a few on the west side too. Late season hunters might consider hunting South and east of Elk Mountain in the Drowsey Water and McQueary Creek valleys. That’s my next scouting trip.

Here is Lake Granby and the steep rugged mountains of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. I highly recommend that area if you are looking for a challenge and a trophy 6x6 bull. It will be the most difficult hunt you’ve ever been on. The elk are in there trust me.

Here is Cascade Mountain on the left and Gravel Mountain on the right. That’s the Stillwater Pass area and it is prime habitat. There’s only one problem with the area. Easy access. There are more roads there and fewer elk. There are a lot of moose.

After getting stuck in a big snow bank for about 30 minutes we travel down the road near the base of the Corral Peaks. Parts of the forest have been logged and reseeded about 15-20 years ago. The young trees are the only survivors after the pine beetle has devastated the entire area.

Looking north across many ridges and valleys you see part of the Rabbit Ears Range. I believe those mountains are Hyannis Peak and Arapaho Ridge in the background. They lie in Unit 171.

Elk Mountain. Yes, there are elk around this mountain. The creeks coming off the mountain should be where you find them. I’ve had a lot of luck finding elk around upper creek valleys during the new moon cycles.

Check out this lush upper meadow that comes off the west of Corral Peaks. Stands of aspens glow against the dead lodgepole pines. The mountain in the background is home to Timber and McBride creeks and is a great place to hunt. Back to this meadow. Just when you think you’ve found a perfect place for elk like this meadow you glass it with anticipation only to see a road runs through it. Forest road 125 runs right along the base of this fine meadow. The meadow looks like a prime feeding area for elk - but not during hunting season. If you want to find elk you have to hit those very small meadows surrounded by dark timber.

Here is a fine place to camp near this meadow at the intersection of forest road 121 and 12. Look for elk on your way back to Wheatley Creek trailhead. There is a small creek that runs under the road and elk will cross there heading for lower meadows. Easy to overlook on your way to the trailhead.

Looking west towards the Gore Range. You can see how lush and perfect this area is. Meadows, aspen stands and rolling hills covered in dead pine. Elk love it here because of the abundance of water, cover and food.

This is an important photo. The mountain on the left is Sheep Mountain. Hunting is good all around it. Especially on the east side near Haystack Creek. Look out for bear in the area! The mountain on the right is Haystack Mountain. I hunted the upper elevations of Parkview mountain (not pictures but is on the right of Haystack Mountain) during 1^st rifle season in 2007 and didn’t see any fresh elk sign. I did find elk sign but it looked to be made during September or late summer. You can’t go wrong hunting the many small creeks around Sheep or Haystack Mountain. Over 3,000 elk are in the area.

Here is another, closer view of Haystack Mountain from a perfect meadow just north of the peak. This is unit 171. Elk can be found on either side of the mountain.

Here is the parking lot at the Wheatley Creek trailhead. There is plenty of parking for horse trailers here. The circle drive makes it easy to park a long trailer.

Trail goes right up the middle of the valley heading north. It’s a steady climb from here. This is very typical terrain of the Troublesome Basin. Very steep hills, lush creek valleys, dead pines as far as you can see and elk in every creek valley. Elk will migrate down these valleys west towards Kremmling to winter.

Hunting is also good in this direction which leads you back towards the Corral Peaks and FR 125. Don’t overlook the little hiding places along the many ridges.

Classic Troublesome habitat.

Elk can’t get lost migrating from summer to winter range. All valleys seem to point directly to Kremmling.

Elk track in the mud near Wheatley Creek.

There are a couple of cowboy cabins near the trailhead. Nothing fancy but maintained. This is open range. Cattle are pulled out before Muzzleloader season I believe. Certainly before rifle season. Wouldn’t that be a great way to spend the summer? Checking on the cattle every day by horse in elk heaven!

Here’s another view of the parking area at the Wheatley Creek trailhead. Logging in the area was a very good thing. Those are the only living pines in the entire area. Maybe they should have done more logging. Or at least a controlled burn every now and then to keep the forest more healthy. Don’t get me started on how poorly the national forest service has maintained the forest health.

The Gore Range. If you are looking for a challenge and really big, heavy elk you’ll want to hunt unit 371 near Brush Creek. Elk grow big and strong along the Gore Range. They have to for survival.

Looking west at the lower valley and private ranch lands. That body of water is Wolfor Mountain Reservoir but I call it the Muddy Reservoir because they dammed up the muddy river to create it.

Heading down the long dirt road back to Highway 40 near Parshall. This is a view looking northwest. A massive migration would be very impressive indeed. The views from here are amazing. I think a late season hunt, if timed perfectly with mother nature could be a very productive hunt.

Don’t forget to sight in your rifle before you head up. This public shooting range is free. It offers targets for bow, muzzleloader, pistol and rifle. From 20 to 100 yards. You can’t miss it. It’s just off Highway 40 between near Parshall, CO.

That was my trip. If you are looking for a great place to ride your horse for days, camp in a tent or in a big camper, hunt, fish, explore, the Troublesome Basin has it all. It is the classic western destination for just about any outdoor activity.

Thanks for reading.