Scouting Trip

June 2009

A Grand Tour of Grand County

Grand County has a lot to offer despite the pine beetle devastation the area is still a solid place to find elk. So many places to go and so little time to see it all. To revisit last year’s trip in the general area click here.

The winter of 2008-2009 was heavy but windy. The elk and deer didn’t have to migrate to severe winter range. The wind blew most of the snow around so the animals didn’t have to try to hard to find food. Even though the food was nutrition-less it gave the elk something to chew on and pass the time. Elk harvest was weak in 2008 and winter was mild. What does that tell ya? There will be more elk to chase in the fall of 2009. Deer numbers are strong and rebounding. We saw over 30 deer (4 nice bucks in velvet), 14 Antelope (the Granby herd is growing it seems), 2 bighorn sheep and 1 elk (dead) during this near full moon visit.

It couldn’t have been any more greener this time of year. The meadows were just glowing. Water, water everywhere. Most of the snow had melted in April. And it melted fast. Too fast for rivers like the Yampa to keep up. The snow pack was above average this past winter. That’s a lot of snow to melt off so quickly. You might recognize this area in Unit 28. Much of Grand County – and especially the really good areas are private ranch land. It sure doesn’t hurt to ask for permission to look for elk on private land. This is Grand County Road 55 which takes you up and over Cottonwood Pass. It’s a dirt road and was pretty muddy. The elk in Unit 28 winter in this area. The long ridge in the background offers some decent late season hunting opportunities. Though the elk herd is very spread out and the unit is large. Unit 28 promises some tough hunting conditions with few elk, private lands, and a LOT of space.

This is Elk Mountain in the background from the view on top of Cottonwood Pass. Elk Mountain has some good elk habitat but not a lot of elk. They all push further north into the Troublesome to avoid road hunters and ATVs. Elk Mountain can be a very good place to hunt in November depending on the weather (you’ll need a lot of snow to push the elk down).

A short hike around the pass resulted in this young elk that may have died of starvation, disease or a hunter. It’s hard to tell. She could have been a spring death. Elk tend to die in the fall and early spring. Those that are too weak to start a difficult winter expire around December. Others who manage to hold on slowly starve to death all winter and arrive in the spring weak.

Yes, I know this is pretty sick but it’s real. There are a lot of bugs, birds and other animals that benefit from the death of an elk. Nature has a way of cleaning things up. It doesn’t take long for the only reminisce of this young cow elk to become bleached white bones on a green carpet on the floor of an aspen grove. The land will eventually consume the bones.

The sage was full with flowers of every color. Reds, purples, yellows, whites. It rained on us five times and the sage smelled wonderful. If I could only bottle that and sell it! The aspen and pine (the living ones) filled the air with freshness.

A picture may be worth a thousand words but being here in person is truly amazing. Spring time just gets better every year.

After we stopped by the CODOW Office west of Hot Sulphur Spring to talk about elk and this past winter we headed to the rifle range. By the way the officer said the elk survived winter extremely well. Last year’s harvest was low and winter was mild. That’s good news to elkoholics like us. The elk will be strong, healthy and bigger this year. I was reading that elk in the area have out lived their own life expectancy. They found a cow that was 22 years old! Amazing how lucky or good she was to dodge bullets and arrows that many years. You have to get up to the wintering areas in and around Kremmling if you get the chance. It’s the only time of year you can truly appreciate how many elk you missed last fall.

This place is free. A nice public range to visit. Not far from Parshall and Byers Canyon north of Highway 40.

Those are rules I can live with. Yes, it was raining when I took the photo. Afternoon showers were scattered and very common.

We found a fair number of road killed deer. Although it was a LOT less than the road kill we saw last year on the same trip.

Doest this look like Mount Suribachi? No, this large mountain is where the elk winter just outside of Kremmling. Notice there are only patches of trees. That’s generally where the elk will be. The majority of the elk didn’t have to migrate this far because it was a mild winter. You can hunt here. It is a State Wildlife Area and it is open to hunting. I’d recommend it during a late season hunt only. It is very steep. Too much hunting pressure and private land is nearby. Access is open on all sides.

A view from the west side of the SWA. That’s highway 9 down there in the distance. There is a faint dirt road you can see that takes you up the middle of the mountain. It is open during hunting seasons. Though most of the elk will be found on the north and east slopes where there are the most trees.

This patch of timber near the top of the mountain is recommended if you are in the area to scout. Notice the small hill to the left? Elk could filter out of the trees to feed safely behind the hill and not be seen at all. Sure, the hill looks open and you may be a good shot at 500 yards uphill but there are many places for the elk to hide despite the lack of cover. Elk are quick to adapt and they know this mountain may only be a wintering option when December rolls around.

Yet another view from many miles up Grand County Road 2. You can see the migration route goes through many miles of rolling sage covered hills and rich hay fields in the Troublesome valley. Notice all the pockets of timber on that wintering ground. If the season is right and the weather cooperates you can see hundreds of elk around the hills of Kremmling Colorado. Across the highway from this mountain is Red Hill – a much smaller hill where elk also congregate in the winter. Hay farmers in the area have a difficult time dealing with elk in the winter. So much that they convinced CODOW to grant a special hunting season to thin the herd down. And CODOW’s biologists asked hunters to provide them an incisor tooth and the reproductive tract from cow elk taken during this hunt. What they found out allowed them to update their computer models. They were shocked to find that cow elk in the area pictured above were living longer than 10 years. The oldest cow taken was 22 years old and pregnant with twins!

The Gore Range is one of the most beautiful and rugged mountain ranges that make up the Rockies. If you have a camera you can help but take amazing shots like this. The land is incredible from the rugged peaks to the lush valley below. Road 1 also called Trough Road is a very scenic route from Kremmling to State Bridge – a good 25 miles or so that follows the Colorado River as it winds its way west. See Units 37, 371 and 36 to learn more about this area on our scouting reports page.

The drive up to the pass that overlooks Gore Canyon is beautiful elk country. However, you can’t set foot on it from this side. Consider an alternate access point from Spring Creek Road – aka Road 10 off of Hwy 9. Look out for bear in the area. And bring a good map. There is a lot of private property in the area but the area is still very huntable. I sure wish I knew some ranchers in the area. I’m certain they see so many elk that they don’t even slow down to look any more.

When I see signs like this I know better. Someone (probably a lot of people) in the past was the reason this sign is posted on both sides of Trough Road along your drive up to the pass. I wouldn’t even bother “trying” to find an access point from here. The other side of the pass is VERY steep and rugged. Not a practical access point either. I’ve never had luck finding elk when there is so much private property around. My best suggestion is find a nearby wilderness area and don’t bother hunting near private land – unless you have permission.

Next stop is a long valley called Troublesome, CO. Where several creeks join and create a lush valley for hay farmers and ranchers. Notice Parkview Mountain on the right side of the photo with some snow on it? The mountains to the left of the photo are Hyannis and others near Poison Basin. We aimed the truck toward Grand County Road 2 for the next leg of our trip.

This road takes you to the top of the ridge and to the Slide Creek State Trust Land (STL). If you are hunting late season and you have chains and trusty 4WD you might consider hunting here. The sign says Black Mountain but the maps shows it as Slide Creek or Slide Mountain STL. Click on the link for directions.

I guess the person before us didn’t see the sign below. This is why you may need chains or mud tires. The road is good but not great. Any side roads can be considered strictly 4WD.

Looking west you can see why the elk favor this valley. HAY! The Troublesome Creek (main fork) makes this a lush valley to grow hay. For nearly 10 miles you will find an assortment of hay fields. There are also cattle ranchers in the area.

There is access to some of the side roads BUT you need to travel through private land to get to those public 4WD roads. In my opinion and understanding if there is NO sign that prohibits you from traveling through then it is fair to say it is a county road and open to the public. For example GCR 2 takes you through private land or BLM land from beginning to end. It is a public road. There are groups of houses that share the side roads. If you are in the area you might drive down unmarked side roads looking for more access into the surrounding national forest. If you see someone driving or nearby you might stop and ask if the road is open to access or if it is ok for you to access the 4WD roads in the nearby foothills. It can’t hurt to ask. Most people are friendly and honest. You might ask if this is access you can use during hunting season. I know second hand that Eastman’s Hunting Journal paid for this type of access a for an archery hunt they were filming back in 2004 or 2005. Word has it that they missed a nice 6x6 during the season. The small 4WD road in the hills (pictured above) is FR 105 I believe. And the entry point that takes the cowboys all the way back to the East Fork Troublesome Creek and where Ethel creek meet. If I had my wish that is the road I wish I could get access to. There were some houses, barns, etc. near this point which is approximately 8 miles north on GCR 2. This 4WD road takes you through private land and on to national forest. It follows the East Fork Troublesome Creek on its way up. It takes you through Wheately Ranch and stops at a gate at the East Fork Cow Camp pictured below. Read more about that area here.

GCR 2 continues north and west but we stayed to the right to continue more north on GCR 24. It meets up with GCR 241 also known as Bighorn Park Road. This is a private community and the only homes this close to the Troublesome Basin. Lucky people! There is NO access from GCR 241.

This photos says it all. If a road is clearly marked that limits access then there is no need to ask.

At the end of GCR 24 there is a gate. Beyond the gate lies the Troublesome Wilderness Study Area. There are NO signs at this point that prohibit you except for the gate. I have an e-mail to the local BLM office asking them who is allowed beyond this point. The gate is locked so the road stops here. See the large mountain in the background? That’s where the TWSA begins. Aim for Buckhorn Creek if you are lucky enough to be near Siebert or on the Grimes Peak Trail (#58).

The road does go further west from here – right onto a private ranch. Supposedly the road goes through to Gunsight Pass and other STLs. Click here to learn more about the State Trust Lands in Colorado. STLs really are the next best thing to hunting private land because it is private land – with seasonal access and rules.

Here is a closer look up the valley to the TWSA. This is remote. Access is extremely limited unless you have a horse or permission. If you parked at the Buffalo Creek Access area it would be a 10-15 mile trek to the TWSA. If you parked at the Wheatley Creek trailhead it would be around 10 miles.

Look how big and lush the valley is. Mild winters allow the elk to remain in the valley to nibble on uncut hay and willows. Ranchers don’t like that too much so they recently petitioned the CODOW to hold a special hunt to cull the elk herd.

Next stop, Kinney Creek off of Hwy 40 just east of Hot Sulphur Springs. During my trip last year I found a large elk (bull or cow we may never know). It was professionally quartered and the head was missing. I can only assume it was an old bull or cow and the head was submitted for CWD testing. Below is a picture of a bull calf leg (left) and the large elk leg found at Kinney Creek BLM Road 2755. You can read more about that trip here.

The road cuts through private land below and crosses Kinney Creek.

A wider shot of the area reveals a hay field below, the Williams Fork Range and the Gore Range beyond that. We found a couple of formal camp sites in the aspens below. Late season hunters have a better chance to find elk, especially if it snows a lot.

A closer look at the Williams Fork in Unit 28 and the Gore Range in Unit 371.

The road splits here. Take the road to the left will take you to upper Kinney Creek where it ends at a gate or private land at Sheriff Creek. This may is the closest you can get to Elk Mountain from the south side. You can get much closer up Cabin Creek via side road 112.1A if you have an ATV or really good 4WD. There are too many roads in that part of Cabin Creek and I don’t recommend it. Although there are some elk in the area you won’t find many if you find any at all. I’d recommend Sawmill Gulch if you are in the Cabin Creek area.

The road the the right is McQueary Creek Road. There is a gate 1 mile up that way. The road will be closed from after Labor Day to June 1^st. Contact the BLM office in Kremmling for more information.

The Kinney Creek valley has been devastated by the pine beetle as you can see. The valley is still very lush and there are elk in the area.

Here is your evidence that elk use the road to migrate lower. There was plenty of sign that a small herd of elk winter in the area.

Looking west you can see the terrain where Kinney Creek road takes you. If you look closely you can see the road in the bottom of the photo.

The McQueary Creek Road is decent. It’s just a one lane road and I’m sure chains and/or snow tires are recommended when the road is wet or snowy. Several ridges east from here is where I’d recommend to find elk in November. When the snow falls deep the elk will migrate lower. You can find elk in the McQueary Creek basin but you’ll probably find more one more creek valley east – The Drowsey Water Creek. The DWC is blocked for access at Hwy 40. The Drowsey Water Ranch owns the only entrance to the long creek valley. Beyond the ranch is 5 miles of national forest. You could access it via Cabin Creek and FR 112.2A if you have a good 4WD or ATV. The entire area from McQueary Creek east to Smith Creek is open national forest land. What makes this area so attractive is the lack of access. You’ll want to hunt the middle (near Drowsey Water Creek), near the tops or directly on top of the many ridges, near water. The ridges are very steep. I would be a difficult hunt given the terrain and miles you need to hike to find the elk.

The high country in the background is the Indian Peaks Wilderness area. I highly recommend that area if you are in great shape, love a challenge and are after a classic Colorado 6x6. The area only has one guide working the Buchanan Creek area. You can have the whole place to yourself during archery season. Click here for photos from Arapaho Wilderness Outfitters. The photo of the bulls on their site are pretty much taken from the same ridge year after year. I call it the Buchanan Ridge and it is a monster of a ridge just west of Buchanan Creek. You won’t find steeper terrain to hunt in Colorado.

What are you waiting for? You need to book your trip and plan your scouting around the new moon (darkest phase) each month from May through August. I don’t give out many guarantees but if you are looking for elk all you need to do is find yourself near the upper creeks in the middle of the Troublesome near some lush meadows during May and June. If you don’t see elk then you’re probably making too much noise. You will still see elk even if you are too loud. July and August are usually very warm and elk are doing everything they can to keep cool. Spend enough time in the Troublesome and with a little luck you’ll see those monsters that everyone is talking about. You don’t see too many 7x7 elk on public land any more. The Troublesome area your BEST chance to see mature bulls of that caliber in Unit 18 outside of Rocky Mountain National Park!