Scouting Trip

Late June 2009

Troublesome Valley

 

 

 

Drive Grand County Road 2 in the winter and you’ll see elk.  The valley is full of hay and cattle ranchers.  Good people working the land and living the American dream. On this trip I saw about 10 deer (no photos), 5 antelope, 3 moose, 15 elk (yes I have photos).  It was a new moon and the best time to be out during the day to see so many wildlife. 

 

 

I drove to the end of GCR 22 and took photos in all directions.  This is the view looking north.  The only problem with hunting the area is the elk are very seasonal.  It’s either boom or bust.  It all depends on the weather.  There are some nice State Trust Lands in the area.  I highly suggest checking them out during late rifle seasons.  There are a lot of dirt roads to travel so the entire valley is widely accessible if you have a good 4WD when it rains or snows.  The closest access point into the northern part of the Troublesome Basin comes from Unit 17 at the end of a decent 4WD road at Troublesome Pass.  Or take the 2,000 drive down to the end of Poison Creek Road.

 

 

Looking east along the Grimes Peak Trail that runs on top of this long ridge.  The good news is this puts you deep into the roadless part of the Troublesome Basin. The bad news is THERE IS NO EASY ACCESS.  In fact the land you are looking at in the photo above is largely private property.  And this is where I drew my conclusion – there is NO easy way to access the heart of the Troublesome from the west side. 

 

 

Looking southwest you see the Gore Range as it winds down.  The tall ridge on the left side of the photo is the end of Williams Fork Range as it ends near Kremmling.  There is something subtle in the photo that is directly related to elk. Do you see it?   It is the faint game trail on the right side of the photo.  I’m standing on the fence that borders public and private land.  The elk come out of the private land (or not) as part of their migration down the valley during heavy winters.  There is a lot of hay fields in the valley below.  Elk can’t resist that even in the winter.  What is most interesting here is this trail will completely hide the elk as their travel through.  The road that winds through the area is just on the other side of the hill to the left.  If you thought Antelope were good about using the subtle draws and low points in the open like this then you can learn a lesson or two about the elk.  Elk are masters of staying out of site.  If you doubt that then visit northwestern Colorado where there are few Juniper trees, lots of open space and the only place to hide is a draw or valley.  An elk herd can travel through an area and you’d never see them in most cases.  They either travel at night or just barely out of site.  If you think about it they are very smart.

 

 

Looking west that high ridge is where you want to hunt in Unit 27.  Highway 40 sneaks through the valley below.  There is a LOT of private land in 27 so you really only have the western border of the unit to hunt. Right on the border with Unit 15.   Notice the patch of dark timber on the steep slope on the left side of this photo?  That’s where elk will hide throughout the wide open valley in the winter.  There are lots of roads in the valley. Some maintained by the county and some simply 4WD.  Elk love trees and steep sections.  Elk are always near water too.  That’s the problem with where I’m standing.  There was no water.  It was a transition area only.  And the scattered elk scat in the area proved that.

 

 

What?  You can’t read this?  Me neither. The only thing that stopped my was my conscious and the locked gate.  I had thoughts of jumping the fence and walking the road 2 miles back to the beginning of the Troublesome Wilderness Study area. EXCEPT this faded sign kept me away. It wasn’t the “NO Trespassing, Hunting or Fishing” that worried me so much. It was the “violators prosecuted under penalty of law” that made up my mind.  The last thing I want to do is make an enemy of a rancher and the local judge.  I’ll inquire with the local BLM office in Kremmling about letting me through to do filming and photographing. 

 

You can hunt the Troublesome Wilderness Study Area.  However, it is a 5 mile minimum hike from the end of Poison Creek Road (you’ll want a good 4WD and pair of chains in case of snow).  Or a minimum 10 mile trek (probably more) from the Wheatley Creek trailhead.  Or a good 15 miles from Buffalo Creek access.  Even if you parked at Troublesome Pass, snuck along Sheep Mtn, picked up the Grimes Peak Trail it’s still a good 10-15 mile hike.  In short there is no easy access unless you have a horse or permission.

 

 

Depressed that I won’t get anywhere close to Buckhorn Creek in the TWSA I start taking photos of the area.  Remember that game trail in an earlier photo?  It heads right to the mixture of aspen and pines.  Most of the aspen in the area was dead but a few remain.  That’s where you’ll find elk (and deer) in the winter.  Areas like this as they hide from hunters.  Wait until December, January or February if you really want to see a lot of elk in the area.  This is just a transition area.  The elk love hay and can’t resist.  Bring a good pair of binoculars or a zoom lens if you plan to see elk up close in the winter.  Another tip for elkoholics – big bulls will shed their antlers between the valley floor and in the woods where the trees meet the wide open spaces.  Between 7500-9000 feet depending on the snow and the moon.  The amount of light in the day will decide when the elk’s hormones trigger the antler to fall off (and when the velvet is ready to peel). 

 

 

The Grand County Antelope herd is getting larger every year.  As I headed up the road to Slide Mountain STL I came around a bend in the road to see 5 nice antelope in the area.  I don’t think there area enough antelope to hunt but it sure is nice to see them.  Reminds me of Wyoming.

 

 

I stopped here at the intersection to get an overview of the STL.  The tall point left of center is where Slide Creek STL begins.  Between that high point and the other high point near center is a steep drop off and just one point of egress for elk to migrate into the lower valley.   Snow is the main factor that the elk use to determine when to migrate lower.  You want a lot of snow in November to get the elk moving.  Without the snow the elk will just stay deep in the heart of the Troublesome where it is difficult to get to.  There are elk on the fringes but not a lot.  This area is very huntable with lots of nice habitat. You want to be on top to find the elk in this area.  And if there is snow that can make it very difficult. The road to Slide Creek STL is good but if is muddy or snowy then you’ll want chains.

 

 

I attempt to piece the elk puzzle together one creek valley at a time.  Here’s where the Troublesome Valley connects to the next valley east.  Most of the land you see above is private but there are opportunities as always.  See the heavily wooded ridge in the upper left of the photo. It leads to the perfect cattle ranch at the base.  It is a very long ridge and also a migration point out of the Troublesome to the Colorado River valley below.  If you are hunting a late season I’d recommend that area if the weather is snowy and cold.  Access is via Grand County Road 21 off of Highway 40.  Take GCR north about 5 miles to camp or park in the nearby area. Aim for the Radio Tower pictured below.

 

 

Here’s another view of that ridge from a different angle.  The long ridge in the background is in Unit 28.  The high peaks in the furthest background are the mountains of the Colorado  Front Range.

 

 

 

Here’s the radio tower.

 

 

 

Elk Mountain.  Appropriately named for the perfect elk habitat in the area.  The bad news?  The roads you don’t see that wind up and around the north side of the mountain.  Despite the roads there are still a lot of places to hunt around the mountain. This is the west slope of the mountain.  I hunted the valley below along Corral Creek in October 2008.  Remember what I said about hunting the around the fringes of the Troublesome?  My 2008 hunt was a perfect example of that.  Unless the weather moves in or the pressure becomes more intense among the outfitter clients deep in the heart of the Troublesome there are few if any elk that you’ll find on the fringes. 

 

 

Corral Mountain is pictured here.  The upper portions of the mountain are where you want to be opening day.  There is a road along the long ridge to the south you see in the photo.  Hunt the western side of the mountain.

 

 

Parkview looms in the distance.  The valley below is a major migration valley out of the Troublesome but that may not happen until December – after any hunting season.  It all depends on the weather.   Notice how many trees have been killed by the pine beetle?  As far as you can see every lodgepole is dead.  The only trees that remain are young pines, fir and spruce.  Aspens are immune.

 

 

This bullet-ridden sign is the one that marks the road to Slide Creek STL.  At this intersection there are plenty of places to park and camp.  It is on a nice saddle between the two major valleys. 

 

 

This road ends at a gate a little further ahead.  Again the best camping is just a ways back in other direction at the intersection.  This is the fringe so I would only recommend hunting this area during a late season hunt in heavy snows.

 

 

Or you can drive further down the main road to this point. There were several trees that blocked the main road past this point.  According to the map there is a formal gate nearby but I didn’t verify it.  The fallen trees prevented me.  Because this area has plenty of access and a decent road I don’t believe it has a lot of elk nearby in the fall.  I’d only hunt this area if the weather was forecasting a heavy snow fall.  It is a wonderful place to camp.

 

 

What appeared to be a brown stump that started to move turned out to be a bear.  This is on a small opening along a BLM road that doesn’t appear on my map.  The road is Black Mountain #2757 as pictured below…

 

 

The road winds down – maybe all the way to private property and a small reservoir on the map.  It is a good road and I recommend following it to the end.  I ran out of time. 

 

 

I parked near a saddle on the map and headed up to the top.  I found this scrape within ¼ mile of the road.  It’s fresh enough to be a rutting area for satellite bulls.  There were several scrapes and a game trail in the area.  It was in dark timber and also a staging point for other elk to hold up just long enough to avoid hunters and wait until snow or pressure pushed them lower.  I’ve seen tree scrapes like this along trails and near roads.  If the peak of the rut falls between seasons as it often does then THAT is time you want to be in elk country even if it is only to take photos and scout.  You will learn a lot by being in the right place between elk hunting season when the elk are a little more relaxed.  Don’t limit yourself to being in elk country only during the hunting season. 

 

 

I found this shed near the game trail on top of the saddle.  It reveals two things.  Elk love saddles to transition from one area to the next and this young 3x3 or 4x4 dropped here.  That means the bigger bulls with heavier antlers and older bodies dropped somewhere in the valley below.  Some elk will drop in January too.  If the winter is difficult that would put them along the Colorado River on private land.  However, you’d be surprised that some elk will hang tight at higher elevations.  They do that as a noble effort to allow the cows to graze on prime habitat at lower elevations according to some biologists studies.  That allows the herd to continue as cows will give birth to calves around Memorial day in the spring.  The other reason bulls hang up high is to avoid hunters and other predators.  By doing so they put themselves in great risk by gambling against mother nature.  If the winter is harsh they could be locked in by snow and will starve to death.  If they bet on a mild winter and get it they will have a better chance of surviving until spring.  Below is an example of such a bull that gambled and lost in the upper Wheatley Creek valley during the winter of 2006-2007.

 

 

 

This cow died along the game trail that goes over the saddle.  Winter kill according to the evidence I found.  She must have been too sick to continue.  An elk that makes it this far into spring probably isn’t starving. Elk can pick up parasite that they can’t defend against.  In some cases no matter how much elk eat they still expire because of a parasite that robs them of their ability to digest. 

 

 

This is what I love to see.  A heavy elk trail down the mountain to a feeding area.  A trail MUST HAVE fresh sign to be an active trail.  Otherwise it is just a seasonal trail. To be active an elk trail must have fresh scat and prints.  To be really fresh it must have elk in those fresh prints.

 

 

As I came into a clear cut I found this.  Hmmmm, looks like bear scat.

 

 

Then I saw this!  Another bear.   That’s two bears in one day.  The difference with this one was it was just him and me. No truck to protect me.  He was busy eating and didn’t see or hear me.  However, I was soaked in deep woods bug spray.  I mean I recently dove into a pool of bug spray just to keep the bugs off on this trip.  It worked.  They could only follow me like paparazzi.  Then the wind shifted, and blew on the back of my neck.  It was just enough to get the bear’s attention. Bears have an incredible sense of smell. 

 

 

I zoomed in to catch him running off.  Notice his back two feet are up in the air as he ran off?  It was at this point I was feeling pretty safe and much more confident. I’m pretty sure I could have taken him in a wrestling match if it came to that.  I haven’t met a bear in Colorado that I couldn’t take.  I can’t say that for Wyoming. It would be me running away that fast if I were in the same situation in Wyoming.

 

 

Further down a lush valley of pine and aspen near an un-named creek I ran into some bachelor bulls grazing.  All animals seemed to be so involved with grazing that they paid little attention to me.  Why can’t it be like this in the fall? 

 

 

Is that grey hair on the neck of this young bull?  He looks skinny for June doesn’t he? 

 

 

Here’s another bull (I found 4 in all grazing together).  He looks just as skinny but has grown an impressive set of heavy 5x5 antlers.  This was a much further hike from the road or nearby logging road.  I’ve marked it on my map.  When I get around to it I will post the area and update this page.   Elk can be found just about anywhere this time of year.  The road is called Black Mountain but I can’t find Black Mountain on my map.  And the road I was on doesn’t exist on the map either.  I would say I was north and east of Slide Creek STL.  In a nice valley with a creek that flows down into the East Fork Troublesome Creek.  There are a million such creeks throughout the Troublesome.  The point is to search until you find the one that has elk in it. 

 

 

On my way out I took some photos of this sulphur flat.  Does anyone know if elk will graze on sulphur grasses?  I mean would it be like croutons on a salad compared with what we might eat? 

 

 

This is a game trail, antelope trail, migration trail or cattle trail.  Ahead is the Troublesome Valley.  Elk filter out of the Troublesome and end up in this valley.  Deer do the same.  Since this is closest to the heart of the Troublesome it is the most likely egress point during harsh winters.  Don’t take my word for it.  Drive GCR 2 all the way back in December, January or February and you’ll see elk.    Sad to say a large mule deer buck was wounded by some idiot poacher this past winter.  Here’s the link form CODOW.  And here’s the story.

 

DOW Seeks Info on Grand County Deer Poaching


The Colorado Division of Wildlife is looking for information about the poaching of a mature mule deer buck north of Kremmling early Saturday, Jan. 3. The incident occurred in the Troublesome area along Grand County Road 2. 
 
The buck was shot and severely wounded by the poacher, who then left the area. It suffered for several hours until it was spotted and reported to officers with the Division of Wildlife, who euthanized the deer. 
 
A cash reward is available through Operation Game Thief for information that leads to issuing a citation or making an arrest in this case. Anyone with information can contact the Division of Wildlife office in Hot Sulphur Springs at (970) 725-6200 or provide information anonymously through Operation Game Thief, toll free, at (877) 265-6648.

 

It is never cool to poach a wild animal out of season.  You either hunt ethically or not at all.  That includes making ethical shots. 

 

 

I took over 180 photos on this trip.  If you want more photos of this trip e-mail me.  I like this photo because it shows that even in the driest, warmest, windiest and coldest parts of elk country beauty abounds.  In such a harsh environment comes the most beautiful discoveries. 

 

My purpose of this trip was to find a closer access point to the Troublesome Wilderness Study Area and to find a way into the heart of the Troublesome.  However, no such access point exists.  The Troublesome is wrapped by private property on three sides.  Your best and shortest route is via Troublesome Pass or Poison Creek Road.  And you will still have to pack in 10-15 miles to get into the heart of the Troublesome.  And you will need chains and a good 4WD to get in and out if it snows.  My suggestion is pick a major creek valley, take plenty of vacation time before and after the season and enjoy yourself.  The season of the elk is a short one. And you have to wait an entire year for it to come back around.  Soak it in while you can. And visit between seasons during the peak of the rut to see what elk you’ve been missing.