First Rifle Season

Troublesome Basin Colorado

October 11-15, 2008

The elk routine in this area changes so much when rifle season arrives. It can be a real bummer to see elk all over here in the spring and summer only to find yourself on a ridge like this on opening day scratching your head. Several weeks earlier the elk were bugling here without much regard to that was doing the bugling, us or them. I found myself in the lower Corral Creek area with intentions to check out upper Wheatley Creek where I found an expired 6x6 skull and antlers in June 2007. This area looks so easy on a map or aerial view from Google maps. There is much more to it when you see it in person.

At 7:40 am I heard a shot from the area of upper Wheatley Creek. I knew I should have started up higher in elevation than I had. However, last year that plan backfired and I drove away from Haystack Mountain (the one near Parkview) in a snow storm. None of the sign up high was fresh. The next day I blow a perfect stalk on a nice bull with several cows. And snow was in the forecast, just like this year. So I tried to anticipate what the elk would do. I know the elk head south and west any time it rains or snows. I positioned myself to be both south and west. The forecast was WAY off (again). It was a beautiful opening day with only a slight chance of rain all day. I parked and headed down to a spring on the map. Water is important to elk this time of year for the food that grows nearby and for the water to drink. The forest floor was dry and crunchy under foot. I walked slowly, listened often as I headed down the slope to Corral Creek below.

There weren’t many hunters in the area. One guy camped much further down the road. Three trucks at the trailhead (ended up being 5 later in the day). Though I did run into some hunters this morning I couldn’t say it was crowded at all. After all the key to this place and almost every place you hunt for elk is to systematically search in all the nooks and crannies until you find them. I combed this area and I found plenty of evidence.

This is Corral Peaks from the south. Talk about nooks and crannies. There are a million places to hide around here. The elk are very spread out. Look at all the perfect benches on the mountain. The sun rises on the mountain illuminating aspens that stubbornly still hold on to their leaves.

I found the spring but not the creek that shows up on the map. Maybe the spring runs underground to Corral Creek below.

I find these bones near a clear cut lower down the large ridge I’m on. Either someone got lucky and fond this elk out in the open or it expired naturally. This large ridge is full of clear cuts. It actually is a good thing there are so many clearings in the area. One, the vegetation has a chance to grow. Two, the new trees that were replanted are completely immune to the pine beetle that has destroyed the entire area.

I want you to glance at this next photo and tell me what you see in the center.

The color tan and dark appear to be a bedded elk on the ridge below the clear cut. I stared at this from about 100 yards away for about 5 minutes. In the early morning light and from the distance even through my scope I could not tell. Did I sneak up on a bedded elk? Was it alone? Was it a bull then? I couldn’t see any antlers and there were trees in the way. I stared and stared. I snuck closer to get a better view. Could this be my lucky day? Was this a bedded elk facing the other way? Nope, it was a fallen tree with the exact same colors of an elk. In a matter of minutes I went from packing out an elk to cursing what I was seeing. I was a little dejected to say the least. I continued down the ridge.

I found several fresh elk beds on a bench near the base of the ridge. It was near 8:30 am and I had heard four more shots coming from the north east. Again at a higher elevation. But the shots seemed desperate. They sounded rushed. I bet the shooter missed. If he was lucky enough to catch an elk out in the open or partially open area then he could take multiple shots in a short time. Now I was really rethinking my decision to hunt lower in advance of the upcoming weather. But check out this bedding area. It’s perfect.

My brother and I have filmed in areas like this before. There are some areas in elk country that the elk rarely travel through. Then there are areas like this where the elk live. This place was hot. I marked it on my map. I’d love to return here next year when the peak of the rut will fall closer to first rifle season.

I found this fresh scrape nearby. And another one nearby from a previous year. I like to see that! Just shortly after 9am I hear a bugle. What? Yes, a bugle. No doubt about it. I had to check it out. It was short and quiet. A lot like the sound elk make outside the peak of the rut. Could it be from the elk that bedded higher up the ridge? I get down to the area and nothing. No sign, no smell of elk, nothing. I suspect it was other hunters. Maybe from the truck that saw earlier. Darn. Most hunters don’t venture far from the truck or the road. Sometimes that pays off. Most of the time it doesn’t.

I made it to the bottom of the ride. Into the Corral Creek valley.

Everything has started to brown up for winter. There are still plenty of green grasses around but you can’t tell from this photo. There are so many little valleys in the area. That is the secret to finding elk. The elk could be in any one of the little valleys.

This valley looks inviting. It’s very typical terrain in the area. Aspens on the south facing slopes and dark pine (mostly dead from pine beetles) on the north and west slopes. This was the view for an old cabin I found. It was a wise location to build. The views are wonderful.

What remains is just the corner of the foundation. The winter was very good to the plants. I actually walked through grasses at least five feet tall. It made for a very lush summer.

Isn’t this a flash from the east? Or Texas? A tree stand in Colorado? That’s wishful thinking. Rarely can you sit and wait for elk to show up. I’m sure they will, eventually. I’m there are elk here in the spring and certainly on the migration out. But who has time to wait for them. Either way it is a great location. Same location as the old cabin.

The Gore Range rises in the background. My Dad will love this photo. In 1980 that’s the mountain range we use to hunt. That’s the year I heard my first elk bugle on a ridge. Elk sounds intrigued me so much. The sound just begged me to pursue it. I had to see the thing that made that sound. And now, 28 years later I’m still chasing them.

I made it to the top of the ridge for a wonderful view looking east towards Elk Mountain. The valley left of center is very, very lush. Full of meadows and the general location where I heard the four rifle shots earlier. Like I said, there are a million places to hide around here. Elk could be anywhere. You have to check out all the little valleys. I took a break on this ridge. The view was too perfect.

This is the view to the west. Look how steep the drop down into the valley is. Some trees on north facing slopes survived the pine beetles. Or they are fir trees. One thing I love about the Troublesome is the terrain. Short (but very steep) slopes that give way to open areas. You can hear for miles and see just as far. The deep valleys are perfect for hiding. Several miles up and over the ridge is the mighty East Fork Troubles Creek valley.

As I was about to leave I see movement. Normally I can’t see deer until I almost step on them. This area use to be full of deer until the last two winters. They were harsh winters and the deer have had a difficult time surviving. I was in the area in June and saw (maybe) the exact same deer trotting across the road. Except the fawn was a newborn with spots and all. The young one was making a lot of noise today. I haven’t heard deer make that much noise before. Something spooked them out of their bed on the opposite ridge. Oh, how I wish they were elk. Ethically there was no way I would take a shot if these deer were elk. I could never orphan a calf by taking her mother away. And I couldn’t take a calf this early in its life. That’s just me. That’s the choice I make when I hunt. My opinion of a successful hunt is exactly what I was doing when I took this photo. Sitting on a ridge overlooking a valley under a deep blue Colorado sky.

The young deer looks up the ridge as the mother heads lower into the safety of the dark timber on the other side of the small creek valley. If they were elk and if the pairing was better I would have had about a 300 yard shot. A very realistic shot for my .300. And my position was good. I had a stump and several nearby logs to steady my rifle. The deer paused long enough but I doubt elk would have done the same. Depends on their age. Elk are very paranoid and rarely out in the open during rifle season.

I hike to the top of the valley. Look at this view. Beautiful. A lush aspen valley with dark timber nearby. See the old elk marks on the aspens. This place has a long history of elk in the area. Some of the chew marks were fresh but most of them were old. These aspens have seen many winters and many elk come and go.

Aspen leaves twinkle in the breeze. The wind was steady out of the south (yep, the very wrong direction for my route today). The wind was wrong about 90% of the day for me. It was swirling at best. Later in the day the wind would prove to be worth reckoning.

I found more beds in the aspens. Timing is everything. I certainly found a lot of bedding areas today. My timing was just off. That’s one big disadvantage of hunting seasons. I wonder if the Division of Wildlife purposely chose dates for first rifle season when there would be a full moon out? The elk will be most active at night during a full moon. The rifle increases your chances of harvesting an elk. But only if you can find them and they present an ethical shot. The elk still have every advantage. A million places to hide and a lot of trees to hide behind. I marked the spot on my map and moved on. It’s at this point when the wind gusts picked up. It was bad. All the dead pine trees were swinging in the wind.

I continue across the ridge in the aspens when I hear this sharp crack. Was it a rifle shot? It was loud. Then I see this mature pine come crashing to the ground. It hits a nearby tree on its way down. Hundreds of limbs go flying through the air as the tree lands with a loud thump. Ok, now I hadn’t planned to dodge falling trees all day. Suddenly this wasn’t very fun. Every crack I hear I had to stop and look around. To avoid the tree if it was coming my way. This kept up for a couple of hours. I’d hear this loud crack then TIMBER! I’ve never seen trees fall before. No, trees are not quiet when they fall. They are very loud. The scary ones were the ones that just fell without much of a cracking sound to warn you. I’d walk past dead trees that were swinging in the wind and hear small cracks near its base. I’d walk faster. I was trapped. I was in an island of aspens safe for now. I wondered how the elk dealt with this. I’m sure they found not so windy places to bed. Trees were falling on the tall ridge above me, below me and over the ridges around me. I had to get out of there.

Ah, open space. I sit squarely in the middle so trees won’t fall on me. The dark forest below has escaped the wrath of the pine beetle. I sit down, calm down and do some cow calling. My hope was to get elk moving out. My calling isn’t that great and would most likely scare them out of the trees. I throw the sound behind me and it bounces off the ridge to my right. Nothing. I took a break, got something to eat and looked at the map. I was still a good distance away from Wheatley Creek. Through a jungle of falling dead lodge pole was the most direct route to go. This little valley had a small creek running further down. It didn’t show up on the aerial map very well. Its little places like this where the elk are. Far from the road and well off the trail.

I headed north still and that’s where I think I blew it. I was still dodging falling trees left and right. The wind was all wrong and that’s what gave me away. On top of the ridge to the left in the photo were several elk beds. However, these were fresh. The tracks leading away were also fresh. It was clear in the dry pine needles and dirt that the elk were there. Either my stink sent them away or the falling trees bothered them. Either way they left and I missed them. This “S” shaped little valley below looked very promising. I stopped for a nap but it was hard to sleep with the wind and the falling trees. I marked this place on my map because it was just perfect. There are several small valleys like this and a bigger one just north east from here.

I found this dead calf elk further down the valley. Maybe she died in the spring.

Coyotes pulled her apart and chewed any meat off the legs. I wondered how she died.

Her hair was pulled out in two spots. This couldn’t have happened too long ago.

The third valley nearby. Lots of places to check for elk. I curtailed my trip to Wheatley Creek because of the wind and the forecast. I didn’t want to get soaked my first day out so I headed back to the truck. I had put in many miles already. I felt I had checked out the area pretty well.

Check out this nest. Is it a hornet nest? Part of me said go ahead and poke it with a stick. The logical part of me said just take a photo and leave it alone. It was warm enough for flies and bees to still be out. So I left it alone. It’s a pretty nice piece of art though isn’t it?

I stop in the Corral Creek valley for a photo. There are two cowboy cabins up this way on your left. Not far from the Wheatley Creek trailhead. It’s a lush valley in the spring and summer. It’s a great place to camp. The road up is in good shape after the snow melts. You can even drive a car back in here. No need for four wheel drive unless it snows. The area showed sign of cattle in every little valley. I believe the cowboys pull them off this open range before muzzleloader season begins. I know the cows are here during early archery season. Cattle are a lot like elk in many ways. Except cattle aren’t very smart, don’t avoid humans and pretty much trash the place. They have similar patterns to elk except the elk are more careful about being seen.

Looking down the valley to the south and west you get the idea of this area. It occurred to me that the majority of the elk may live more in the middle of the Troublesome Basin. Areas like Ethel, Timber, McBride, Siebert, Haystack and Hay Park creek valleys. Then I thought no way. Elk may be concentrated in the lower Middle Fork or Haystack in the spring. But honestly elk can be found in any creek valley any time. Elk are very spread out. The East Fork Troublesome Creek runs for many miles as does Corral Creek and the main fork of Troublesome Creek. Where there is water, some seclusion nearby and safety – that’s where you will find the elk most consistently. I think the beds I found were from the previous weather pattern that brought snow to this fine place. Elk will move when it rains or snows. But then they seem to melt back into more remote places both high and low. Like I said, timing is everything.

I decided to take a nap back at the truck where there were no falling trees around me. I took an old logging road right back to it. I’ll have to remember that route next time I’m in a hurry. I sat on this nice long meadow north west of Elk Mountain in the evening. Read a book, threw out the occasional cow call and waited. Corral Creek rolled through the valley below.

I caught movement out of my eye near the edge of the meadow up the valley. This guy had the same idea as me. This could work. If he sees something and misses his shot the elk may come my way. All I had to do was dodge his bullet. Instead all was quiet.

Lower down the valley where the creeks meet there are some nice coves in the meadow. I was really hoping for some elk movement. Though it wasn’t likely. The full moon was out the previous night. I was treated to a dark sky early this morning on my drive up. You could see every single star in the night sky. It really is darkest (and coldest) before dawn. I saw a shooting star too. The western sky is always a beautiful sight. Even though clouds gathered this evening none of them were threatening. That 70% chance of rain turned out to be a 0% chance. They did forecast the wind accurately. The full moon would be up soon and THEN the elk would start moving. I didn’t hear a rifle shot since this morning. It was all quiet this evening.

Last shot before my camera batteries die. There are so man little wonderful open areas like this all over this place. Elk could be in any one of them at any time.

You just have to check them all out.

We did get snow Saturday night into Sunday morning but it was a very wet snow. They predicted up to six inches but it was more like two or less.

More snow fell up high but that melted on Sunday. The wind was still out of the south and gusty at times.

Monday was cool but not cold. In the 40s. Skies were mostly sunny and it was dry. I put in some good miles and maybe got close once. I did see a bull

Moose that crossed the road in just about the same spot as the deer and her fawn back in June. I had seen a lone cow elk cross further down the road in June.

The animals appear to bed up higher on the ridge during the day and graze down by Corral Creek at night. The ridge is about two miles long but the elk

(and other animals) seem to cross within a mile from Wheatley Creek trailhead. There is a creek that they seem to follow down the ridge. Click here to see

more photos from the area taken in June 2008.

Thanks for reading.